Dermaplaning is a popular cosmetic procedure that gently exfoliates your skin and removes fine hairs, leaving brighter and smoother skin. It requires little to no recovery time and results in smoother skin texture, which allows for better makeup application.

Dermaplaning can be done as a single procedure or in combination with other facials—but the treatment isn’t right for everyone. It’s always best to do your research before any cosmetic procedure. And we’re here to help with that!

What is dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning is a quick, painless skin rejuvenation procedure that exfoliates the top layer of skin and removes vellus hair (peach fuzz). This leaves a smooth surface that helps moisturizers absorb better and over which it is easier to apply makeup.

A dermatologist may use a hand-held device called a dermatome or a surgical scalpel to gently scrape the top layer of dead cells and cut fine hairs. The procedure is typically painless, and most people find it relaxing. Dermaplaning is relatively inexpensive and you may see immediate results. It is appropriate for most skin types and the results may last for 3-4 weeks.

Dermaplaning has become a popular, non-invasive skin rejuvenation strategy that is even more effective when you combine it with a comprehensive skincare regimen.¹ To protect your skin, consider a morning and evening routine that includes cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting. These simple steps may help extend the results of your dermaplaning procedure.

Does dermaplaning cause acne?

Dermaplaning is a form of mechanical or physical exfoliation that isn’t the cause of acne. However, when done inappropriately or aggressively, it can irritate the skin and trigger active breakouts.² One of the side effects of acne is the scars they can leave behind. In-office professional dermaplaning with a chemical peel can effectively reduce the appearance of acne scars.³

Exfoliation and irritation

Exfoliation is a process that removes the top layer of dead skin cells. There are 2 types of exfoliation-mechanical and chemical. Dermaplaning is a form of mechanical exfoliation.

There are several reasons why dermaplaning may result in the increased possibility of an acne breakout. For one, over-exfoliation through dermaplaning can damage the skin’s protective barrier and leave it sensitive to its environment. This can lead to irritation and potential aggravation of acne.

Normal side effects from dermaplaning

While over-exfoliation can trigger certain symptoms, there are a few side effects that may normally happen after dermaplaning at home or at a dermatology provider’s office. The first is skin redness or irritation from mechanical exfoliation. Even if you or your provider are extremely careful, your skin may get slightly irritated from the procedure.

While it’s rare, you may experience a cut or laceration from the blade used during the procedure. Finally, the irritation and skin dryness may also trigger an acne breakout.⁴ If you’re dermaplaning at home, you can reduce the potential risk of irritation and acne breakouts by using the tool gently and only as often as your dermatology provider recommends.

Who should avoid dermaplaning?

While dermaplaning is appropriate for most skin types, there are times when the procedure should be avoided. For example, mechanical exfoliation techniques should not be used on people with skin conditions that could be damaged by the scalpel. This includes those with sensitive skin, active acne or cystic acne, rosacea, moles, tags, psoriasis, and eczema.

While you may not normally have sensitive skin or dermatitis, if you are also using isotretinoin (Accutane) to treat severe acne, your skin may become dry and itchy.⁵ Some of the more common side effects of isotretinoin are inflamed lips, dermatitis, facial redness, and dry skin.⁶ Adding a mechanical exfoliation procedure can increase your potential risk of an acne breakout.⁷

Chemical options to exfoliate your skin

When mechanical exfoliation doesn’t work for your skin, consider chemical exfoliation options before other abrasive procedures that may trigger an acne breakout. The benefit of chemical exfoliation techniques is that they do more than exfoliate the top layer of your skin. Dermatology providers prefer in-office chemical treatments to help treat photo-aging, acne scars, and the visible signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles.⁸

Chemical treatments can be effective on acne-prone skin and can help improve skin tone and texture.⁹ However, when using a chemical peel at home or at your dermatology provider’s office, your skin requires adequate preparation and care afterward.

Chemical peel options include glycolic acid, alpha hydroxyl acid (AHA), beta hydroxyl acid (BHA), salicylic acid, and trichloroacetic acid (TCA).¹⁰ When receiving a chemical peel, your provider will choose different strengths to achieve different depths and results. There are also over-the-counter chemical peels that come in non-prescription strength. Before adding a chemical exfoliant to your regimen, speak with your dermatology provider for more advice about the type of chemical peel that would be best for your skin.

Who shouldn’t use chemical exfoliants?

While dermaplaning is typically suitable for most skin types, chemical exfoliants may not be appropriate for all skin types. Superficial peels may be good for most skin types.¹¹ However, medium-depth peels should be used with caution in those with dark skin. Deep peels require significant healing time and have an increased risk of side effects.¹² You can only get medium and deep peels at your dermatology provider’s office.

How to take care of your skin after dermaplaning

Although no recovery time is typically necessary after dermaplaning, there are steps you should take to care for your skin. Physical or mechanical exfoliation removes the top layer of dead skin cells. To help prevent skin damage, you must take several precautions in the following days, including avoiding the sun for at least 3 days and wearing sunscreen with at least SPF 30* to protect your skin whether it’s summer or winter.

The mechanical exfoliation removes dead cells and exposes your pores. Avoid makeup in the first 24 hours following dermaplaning to avoid clogging your pores and increasing the risk of an acne breakout. Also, speak to your provider about how long you should avoid retinoids¹³ and other active ingredients before and after dermaplaning. Avoid other exfoliants or facial scrubs to help prevent over-exfoliation.

After dermaplaning, your skin is ready to absorb moisture. Apply non-comedogenic moisturizers,¹⁴¹⁵ like Curology’s Gel Moisturizer or Cream Moisturizer, depending on your skin care needs. To improve your results and protect your skin, use a quality skincare regimen like the personalized care you can receive at Curology.

Customized skin care can help decrease acne outbreaks

Finding the right skin care regimen for your skin type can be challenging. When a one-size-fits-all approach doesn’t meet your needs, Curology offers a personalized option for skincare that can help reduce your acne breakouts or help slow the appearance of the visible signs of aging, like fine lines.**

Get your personalized skincare routine with Curology

Get your personalized skincare routine with Curology

Start your skin quiz

In just a few steps, you can get a personalized skincare formula prescribed by a licensed dermatology provider. To get started, answer a few questions and send some selfies. Our in-house licensed dermatology providers will review your information. If Curology skincare products are right for your skincare needs, they’ll prescribe a personalized treatment to help you reach your goals.***

P.S. We did the homework so you don’t have to:

1. Pryor, L., et al. Dermaplaning, topical oxygen, and photodynamic therapy: a systematic review of the literature. Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. (December 2011).

2. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to Safely Exfoliate at Home. (n.d.).

3. Spira, M. Treatment of acne pitting and scarring. Plastic Reconstructive Surgery. (July 1977).

4. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to Safely Exfoliate at Home. Ibid.

5. Layton, A. The use of isotretinoin in acne. Dermato-Endocrinology. (May-June 2009).

6. Layton, A. The use of isotretinoin in acne. Dermato-Endocrinology. Ibid.

7. Spring, L.K., et al. Isotretinoin and Timing of Procedural Interventions: A Systematic Review With Consensus Recommendations. JAMA Dermatology. (2017, August 1).

8. Grajqevci-Kotori, M. and Kocinaj, A. Exfoliative Skin-peeling, Benefits from This Procedure and Our Experience. Medical Archives. (December 2015).

9. Grajqevci-Kotori, M. and Kocinaj, A. Exfoliative Skin-peeling, Benefits from This Procedure and Our Experience. Medical Archives. Ibid.

10. Grajqevci-Kotori, M. and Kocinaj, A. Exfoliative Skin-peeling, Benefits from This Procedure and Our Experience. Medical Archives. Ibid.

11. Rendon, M.I., et al. Evidence and Considerations in the Application of Chemical Peels in Skin Disorders and Aesthetic Resurfacing. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. (July 2010).

12. Rendon, M.I., et al. Evidence and Considerations in the Application of Chemical Peels in Skin Disorders and Aesthetic Resurfacing. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. Ibid.

13. Layton, A. The use of isotretinoin in acne. Dermato-Endocrinology. Ibid.

14. Rawlings, A.V. and Harding, C.R. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatology Therapy. (2004, n.d.).

15. Sutaria, A.H., et al. Acne Vulgaris. StatPearls. (2023, August 17).Spira, M. Treatment of acne pitting and scarring. Plastic Reconstructive Surgery. Ibid.

16. Spira, M. Treatment of acne pitting and scarring. Plastic Reconstructive Surgery. Ibid.

Elise Griffin is a certified physician assistant at Curology. She received her Master of Medical Science in physician assistant studies from Nova Southeastern University in Jacksonville, FL.

*Protect your future skin by wearing sunscreen and limiting direct sun exposure

**Restrictions apply. See website for full details and important safety information.

***Cancel anytime. Subject to consultation. Results may vary.

Written by

Curology Team

Medically reviewed by

Elise Griffin, PA-C