There’s no one-size-fits-all in skincare. What works for one person may not necessarily have the same results for someone else. But it’s only natural to want the best! Luckily our team of licensed dermatology providers are regularly reviewing and assessing products on the market and are happy to offer a few recommendations! So here, you’ll find the products that hold up to our rigorous standards.

The answer to some of your skincare concerns may just come in the form of alpha hydroxy acids, also known as AHAs. Alpha hydroxy acids are a common ingredient used in chemical exfoliants—which can help slough off dead skin cells to help reveal a more radiant complexion. But there are a few things you should know about AHAs before you incorporate them into your skincare routine. 

Here, Curology’s team of expert dermatology providers break down the ins and outs of AHAs: What they are, their skin benefits, and how you can determine if they’re right for your specific skincare needs. 

What are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of naturally occurring, organic acids. In the skincare world, they’re typically used as exfoliating agents.¹ Here are a few different types of AHAs you may come across in cosmetic products. 

Glycolic acid

This type of AHA—derived from sugar cane—is the most common variety. Glycolic acid can help improve skin discoloration, increase collagen levels, and help with signs of photoaging. Salts and esters of this acid, such as ammonium glycolate, can also be found in creams and a variety of chemical exfoliating products.²

Lactic acid

This acid comes from wine, beer, molasses, fruit, and sour milk, and is the second most common type of AHA. It can target wrinkles, skin smoothness, and age spots. Both lactic acid and glycolic acid are considered safe to use in cosmetic products in limited concentrations.³

Malic acid

Malic acid is derived from apples.⁴ Research shows that when combined with choline, malic acid can increase moisture and decrease transepidermal water loss while improving penetration of hyaluronic acid into the skin.⁵ In skincare products, it can also be a humectant moisturizer.⁶

Citric acid

As its name would suggest, citric acid comes from citrus fruits.⁷ It can help reverse signs of photodamage, increase collagen production, and smooth the outer layer of the skin.⁸ Like malic acid, citric acid can also be found in beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs).⁹ 

Tartaric acid

This acid is milder than glycolic acid and is often included at a low concentration in over-the-counter peels that gradually exfoliate the skin.¹⁰ With any chemical peel, it’s a good idea to consult a professional before trying it for the first time.

AHAs have varied uses and can be found in products such as shampoos and conditioners. It can be less likely to cause side effects with short contact time on the skin. In chemical peeling, AHAs remain on the skin for longer periods of time to achieve the expected outcome; the amount of exposure time can play a role in how effective these acids are.¹¹

Potential benefits of AHAs

Now that we know all the different types of common AHAs used in skin care products, let’s take a look at some of the main benefits of using these acids:

• Treating melasma and seborrhea¹²

• Exfoliating the skin¹³

• Improving signs of photodamage, such as wrinkles, age spots, and skin roughness¹⁴ 

• Helping to remove scars and treat acne¹⁵

In general, AHAs exfoliate by removing dead skin cells stuck to the outer layer of the skin. Because of their exfoliating properties, they can help with acne, scars, melasma, roughness, age spots, and seborrhea.¹⁶ They can also help to thicken the skin and increase collagen density, which can help reduce the appearance of wrinkles.¹⁷

When combined with retinoids, AHAs are known as safe and effective treatments for photodamage. In one study, an AHA-retinoid cream resulted in reduced photodamage, increased hydration, and less skin redness overall.¹⁸ 

AHA Products to Consider

If you decide AHAs are something you’d like to try, here are a few products that you may consider: 

1. Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner: This toner contains glycolic acid. It also has aloe vera to help soothe skin.

2. Pixi Glow Tonic: This facial toner includes 5% glycolic acid and aloe vera. It is alcohol-free, paraben-free, and not tested on animals.

3. Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum: This serum contains a blend of glycolic, citric, tartaric, and lactic acid. It is also free from essential oils, silicones, and added fragrance.

What to watch for when using AHAs

Although AHAs have the potential to provide various skin benefits, there are also some possible side effects you’ll want to be aware of before using them. These include:¹⁹

• Skin rash

• Swelling

• Changes in pigmentation

• Skin peeling

• Itching

• Chemical burns

• Tenderness

• Increased sunburn

Experts at the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association say that glycolic acid and lactic acid are safe to use in over the counter products if they are present in a concentration of 10% or less, with a pH of 3.5 or higher.²⁰ If you need help deciding which products to try, you may want to consult a professional, such as one of Curology’s licensed dermatology providers.

When using products with AHAs, especially ones that are usually applied in the morning (such as toners), make sure to protect your skin from the sun.²¹ This includes applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen (like The Sunscreen) and wearing protective clothing and hats.

Chemical exfoliants can sound intimidating, but they don’t have to be with a professional’s help. To sign up and get personalized care, claim your offer from Curology today*. 

Find out if AHAs are right for you

Despite their benefits, AHAs may not be for everyone. As we touched on, these acids can come with quite a few side effects, including itching and peeling—so caution is necessary. To find out what exfoliants can be beneficial for your skin concerns, our licensed dermatology providers can help.

Get your personalized skincare routine with Curology

Get your personalized skincare routine with Curology

Start your skin quiz

When you sign up with Curology,* you’ll tell us all about your unique skin type, and send us a few pictures so we can determine your skin type. Then, you’ll be paired with one of our licensed dermatology providers, who will create a personalized treatment plan just for you. If you have any questions throughout the process, about AHAs or anything skin-related, you can ask our licensed dermatology providers at any time.

P.S. We did the homework so you don’t have to:

1. Bergfeld, W., et al. Cosmetic use of alpha-hydroxy acids. Cleveland Clinic Journal of Medicine. (June 1997).

2. Bergfeld, W., et al. Cosmetic use of alpha-hydroxy acids. Cleveland Clinic Journal of Medicine. Ibid.

3. Bergfeld, W., et al. Cosmetic use of alpha-hydroxy acids. Cleveland Clinic Journal of Medicine. Ibid.

4. National Center for Biotechnology Information. Compound Summary for CID 525, Malic Acid. PubChem. (2023, September 23).

5. Wu, X., et al. Improving dermal delivery of hyaluronic acid by ionic liquids for attenuating skin dehydration. Int J Biol Macromol. (2020, May 1).

6. Tang, S., et al. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. (April 2018).

7. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Citric acid: An α and β hydroxyacid for antiaging. (March 2005). 

8. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Citric acid: An α and β hydroxyacid for antiaging. Ibid. 

9. Tang, S., et al. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. Ibid.

10. Soleymani, T., et al. A Practical Approach to Chemical Peels. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. (August 2018). 

11. Tang, S., et al. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. Ibid. 

12. Tang, S., et al. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. Ibid.

13. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Alpha Hydroxy Acids. (2022, November 22).

14. Tang, S., et al. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. Ibid.

15. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Alpha Hydroxy Acids. Ibid. 

16. Tang, S., et al. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. Ibid.

17. Ditre, C. M., et al. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol. (February 1996).

18. McDaniel, D., et al. Efficacy and tolerability of a double-conjugated retinoid cream vs 1.0% retinol cream or 0.025% tretinoin cream in subjects with mild to severe photoaging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. (2017, August 1).

19. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Alpha Hydroxy Acids. Ibid.

20. Bergfeld, W., et al. Cosmetic use of alpha-hydroxy acids. Cleveland Clinic Journal of Medicine. Ibid.

21. Bergfeld, W., et al. Cosmetic use of alpha-hydroxy acids. Cleveland Clinic Journal of Medicine. Ibid.

22. Tang, S., et al. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. Ibid.

23. Tang, S., et al. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. Ibid.

24. Moghimipour, E. Hydroxy Acids, the Most Widely Used Anti-aging Agents. Jundishapur J Nat Pharm Prod. (Winter 2012).

Maria Borowiec is a certified Nurse Practitioner at Curology. She received her Master in Nursing from University of California, Los Angeles in Los Angeles, CA.

*Cancel anytime. Subject to consultation. Results may vary. 

Written by

Curology Team

Medically reviewed by

Maria Borowiec, NB-BC