Knowing what you’re putting on your skin is important. If the ingredients you’re using aren’t right for your skin, they could be working against your goals. It’s wise to do an occasional read-through of the ingredient lists on the products in your bathroom so you can be informed about what’s actually in your skincare routine!

When you do, you might stumble across an ingredient called “urea.” But exactly what is urea in skincare, and what is it used for? Here, we’ll break down what you need to know about this chemical compound, including its uses and possible side effects.

What is urea in skincare?

Urea is a chemical produced naturally by your body as a waste by-product in your liver’s metabolic processes.¹ Most of the natural urea your body creates is removed by your kidneys, but a relatively small amount is found in your skin. It helps attract and keep moisture under the surface of your skin.²

Urea is part of a group of organically occurring chemicals known as the natural moisturizing factors (NMF).³ A small percentage of the NMF is made of urea, and the remainder is made up of lactic acids and other inorganic ions.⁴

Urea is also found in many creams, lotions, and shampoos, but don’t worry—it’s not the same as the urea produced in your liver. The urea you’ll find in skincare products is a synthetic version of that organic chemical compound.⁵ Depending on where it’s used and the strength of concentration, synthetic urea can serve different purposes, including as a moisturizer and an exfoliant. It also aids in the penetration of other active ingredients.⁶

What does urea do?

A lot! Below, we’ll take a closer look into urea, unpacking why you may find this ingredient listed on a variety of skincare products.

Effects of urea in skincare

Urea has two main properties that make it beneficial for use in skincare:

• Urea is a humectant: Urea is what’s known as a humectant, which means it’s a substance that attracts water and helps hydrate the skin. This property gives urea a moisturizing effect that helps improve the skin barrier.⁷

• Urea is a keratolytic agent: Urea also acts as an exfoliant by helping to break down keratin⁸ (the protein that makes up your hair and nails and also helps maintain the integrity of skin cells).⁹ A buildup of keratin in the skin can contribute to keratosis pilaris, a condition characterized by bumps that have a rough, stippled appearance.¹⁰

Uses of urea in skincare

These two properties of urea (humectant and keratolytic) give this ingredient a double purpose in your skincare routine. Its exfoliating effect removes the rough, dry outer layer of dead skin cells. It also helps other active ingredients to penetrate further into the skin, which may help them be more effective.¹¹

These effects is often why urea is used as an active ingredient in many topical antifungal treatments (like treatment for athlete’s foot).¹² But it’s not just helpful for treating skin conditions—it helps other products penetrate more effectively as well, like Curology’s Everyday Sunscreen. We have added urea to our non-comedogenic broad spectrum SPF 30 formula to help the zinc oxide (the physical mineral that gives our sunscreen its ability to reflect UV rays) absorb quickly into your skin. Our formula provides effective protection from the sun’s damaging effects while giving your skin a smooth, fresh feeling with no awkward streaks left behind.

Depending on its intended use, you may find that different products contain urea in different concentrations ranging from 2%-50%.¹³

• Low concentration: On the lower end of the spectrum (2%-12%), urea is a very effective moisturizer used to treat dry skin (xerosis), which can have various causes, such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis.

• Medium concentrations: Products that have a mid-range urea content (between 15%-30%) are mostly used for treating mild keratosis or hyperkeratosis, especially in more sensitive areas

• High concentrations: Products on the upper end of the spectrum (40% urea or more) are most often used under physician or dermatologist direction for treating more severe hyperkeratosis or other conditions where a lower concentration wouldn’t be as effective (as determined by your healthcare or dermatology provider).

Is urea right for your skincare routine?

Because it’s used in different amounts for different purposes, it’s important to know what strength of urea concentration you need for the condition you’re trying to treat. Simple skin dryness or a mild case of atopic dermatitis will generally call for a much lower concentration.¹⁴ If treatment calls for a high concentration of urea (such as for severe hyperkeratosis), it’s best left to your dermatology provider to determine what product will be most effective for your needs and which strength you should use.

Urea products are often formulated as creams, but urea can also be found in gels, lotions, cosmetic foundations, and others. In everyday use, urea is considered a safe and effective ingredient that most people’s skin will tolerate well.¹⁵ If you have concerns about how your skin may react to urea, you can always try a patch test first to be sure. 

Donna McIntyre, a nurse practitioner at Curology says, “Since it is a naturally occurring component of your skin’s NMF, urea is generally well-tolerated even in mid-to high-range concentrations. Of course, you should always follow your healthcare or dermatology provider’s directions on the amount and how often to use it.” Daily application is likely safe for the duration of any treatment, but your provider may have different instructions depending on the condition and type of your skin. Always follow your provider’s instructions as indicated. As always, you can discuss changes to your skincare routine with your dermatology provider.

Does urea have any side effects?

Urea as a topical application is generally well-tolerated by most people’s skin, especially in lower concentrations. What side effects have been reported are few and are generally mild, and are usually only seen in higher concentrations. Products with a lower concentration of urea designed for everyday use are considered safe for most. At higher concentrations, some mild irritation has been reported.¹⁶

If you have a sensitivity to urea, there are other moisturizers and exfoliating skincare products available that may be effective in treating your particular skin concern. But for the most part, your skin will probably tolerate urea just fine, and there’s little risk of complications or side effects.

Find what works for your skin

Urea has several therapeutic uses in skincare that harness it’s moisturizing, exfoliating, and skin softening properties. It’s available as an over-the-counter product or by prescription and in different concentrations depending on the intended use. It does carry the possibility of mild side effects or allergic reactions, and it isn’t necessarily appropriate for all skin types. Generally speaking, it’s well-tolerated, and the risk of reaction or adverse effects is minimal.

Get your personalized skincare routine with Curology

Get your personalized skincare routine with Curology

Start your skin quiz

If you want to take the guesswork out of your skincare routine, Curology is here to help. Our team of licensed dermatology providers can prescribe a personalized formula tailored to address your skin concerns and recommend our other dermatologist-designed products to round out your routine. Sign up at Curology today* to find the personalized skincare routine that fits your needs.

P.S. We did the homework, so you don’t have to:

1. Barmore, W., et al. Physiology, Urea Cycle. StatPearls - NCBI. (2022, May 15).

2. Dirschka, T. Mode of action of urea. International Journal of Clinical Practice. (2020, November 29).

3. Friedman, A., et al. Urea: A Clinically Oriented Overview from Bench to Bedside. J Drugs Dermatol. (2016, May 1).

4. Baumann, L. Natural Moisturizing Factor. Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients. (2015).

5. Piquero-Casals, J., et al. Urea in Dermatology: A Review of its Emollient, Moisturizing, Keratolytic, Skin Barrier Enhancing and Antimicrobial Properties. Dermatology and Therapy. (2021, October 1).

6. Rondon-Berrios, H., et al. Urea for the Treatment of Hyponatremia. Clin J Am Soc Nephrol. (2018, November 7).

7. Albèr, C., et al. Effects of water activity and low molecular weight humectants on skin permeability and hydration dynamics - a double-blind, randomized and controlled study. Int J Cosmet Sci. (2014, May 20).

8. Celleno, L. Topical urea in skincare: A review. Dermatol Ther. (2018, October 30).

9. Moll, R., et al. The human keratins: biology and pathology. Histochem Cell Biol. (2008, May 7).

10. Hwang, S. and Schwartz, R.A. Keratosis pilaris: a common follicular hyperkeratosis. Cutis. (September 2008).

11. Piquero-Casals, J., et al. Urea in Dermatology: A Review of its Emollient, Moisturizing, Keratolytic, Skin Barrier Enhancing and Antimicrobial Properties. Dermatology and Therapy. Ibid.

12. Celleno, L. Topical urea in skincare: A review. Dermatol Ther. Ibid.

13. Micali, G. and Lacarrubba, F. Optimising the use of urea in dermatology. International Journal of Clinical Practice. (2020, November 29).

14. Micali, G. and Lacarrubba, F. Optimising the use of urea in dermatology. International Journal of Clinical Practice. Ibid.

15. Micali, G. and Lacarrubba, F. Optimising the use of urea in dermatology. International Journal of Clinical Practice. Ibid.

16. Micali, G. and Lacarrubba, F. Optimising the use of urea in dermatology. International Journal of Clinical Practice. Ibid.

17. Piquero-Casals, J., et al. Urea in Dermatology: A Review of its Emollient, Moisturizing, Keratolytic, Skin Barrier Enhancing and Antimicrobial Properties. Dermatology and Therapy. Ibid.

Donna McIntyre is a board-certified nurse practitioner at Curology. She obtained her Master of Science in Nursing at MGH Institute of Health Professions in Boston, MA.

*Subject to consultation. Subscription required. Results may vary.

Here at Curology, we currently focus on the diagnosis and treatment of acne, rosacea, and anti-aging concerns. We do not treat many of the conditions mentioned in this article. This article is only for information purposes.

Written by

Curology Team

Medically reviewed by

Donna McIntyre, NP-BC