Ask Curology: mineral vs. chemical sunscreen

Welcome to Ask Curology, penned by one of our in-house medical providers in response to your questions about all things skincare. This week: chemical or mineral sunscreen—what’s the best for your skin? If you’re acne-prone or have sensitive skin, understanding the different types of sunscreen ingredients is crucial. Our in-house skincare expert explains it all.

Chemical or mineral sunscreen: which one is better?

The main difference between chemical and mineral sunscreen is the active ingredients that provide sun protection. Chemical and physical are two broad categories for sunscreen ingredients: physical sunscreens’ active ingredients are derived from minerals, while chemical sunscreens’ active ingredients are synthetic compounds. There are also hybrid sunscreens that contain both chemical and physical ingredients. 

If your skin tolerates chemical sunscreens’ active ingredients, you may prefer lotions and moisturizers with those ingredients for daily sun protection. However, many people choose mineral sunscreens if they suspect they have an allergy or sensitivity to certain ingredients in chemical sunscreens. Since you’re acne-prone and have sensitive skin, it’s worth it to decipher your product’s ingredient list before investing in a purchase.

I’ll recommend some of our favorite sunscreens for acne-prone skin in a moment. First, let me give some more information about the differences between chemical and mineral sunscreens. 

What is mineral sunscreen?

A mineral (or physical) sunscreen creates a physical barrier over your skin that bounces back the sun’s UV rays. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are the two minerals used in physical sunscreens. Recorded use of zinc oxide in topical treatments dates back to ancient India, while titanium dioxide has been commercially used as a pigment since the early 1900s. 

The benefits of mineral sunscreen:

Because chemical sunscreen allergies and sensitivities are fairly common, people with sensitive skin typically prefer mineral sunscreens. The drawback? Physical sunscreens are notorious for leaving a white cast, and many find titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to be thick, pasty, and hard to rub into the skin. That said, micronization (with smaller particle size) and tints do help!

Mineral sunscreens we recommend

• The sunscreen by Curology SPF 30

• Neutrogena Sensitive Skin Sunscreen Lotion Broad Spectrum SPF 60+

• Bare Republic Mineral SPF 30 Sunscreen Spray

What is chemical sunscreen?

The active ingredients in chemical sunscreens are synthetic compounds that filter and absorb UV light. There are quite a few different chemical sunscreen active ingredients, including: 

• Avobenzone

• Octisalate

• Oxybenzone 

• Homosalate 

The benefits of chemical sunscreen:

Chemical sunscreens tend to absorb easily into the skin, making them a popular addition to skincare products with SPF. They’re also less likely to leave a white cast than physical sunscreens. Because of their versatility, you’ll find chemical sunscreens in a variety of skincare products for each skin type. 

That said, chemical sunscreens may cause irritation or allergic reactions in certain individuals. If you have allergy-prone or sensitive skin, it may be easier to stick to mineral sunscreens. 

Chemical sunscreens we recommend

• Cetaphil Pro DermaControl Oil Absorbing Moisturizer SPF 30

• Neutrogena Oil-Free Moisture Broad Spectrum SPF 35

• Glossier Invisible Shield

Hybrid sunscreens (when chemical and physical combine) 

Because both types of sunscreen ingredients have their pros and cons, it’s common that facial sunscreens will include a mix of chemical and mineral sunscreen ingredients. Check the active ingredients list on your bottle to make sure you’re getting the kind you want, and be sure to avoid any chemical sunscreen ingredients you may be sensitive to. 

Hybrid sunscreens we recommend

• EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46

• Tatcha Silken Pore Perfecting Sunscreen SPF 35

• Olay Complete Daily Moisturizer with Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30

Mineral or chemical sunscreen: which one is best for you?

Because you mention having acne and sensitive skin, I’d recommend you try physical sunscreens before chemical sunscreens. Certain physical sunscreen ingredients such as zinc oxide may even help soothe the skin! The American Academy of Dermatology recommends using a mineral sunscreen if you have sensitive or acne-prone skin too. If you choose a mineral sunscreen, make sure to blend the product well into your skin to avoid a white cast.

Because we know allergies to the active ingredients in chemical sunscreens can happen, you’ll likely want to stick to sunscreen formulas with titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide as their active ingredient

Sunscreen ingredients to avoid

Of course, it doesn’t matter if your sunscreen is chemical or physical if it has ingredients that can trigger breakouts and irritation. That’s a hard pass! As a rule of thumb, avoid alcohol in skincare products (specifically alcohol denat., aka denatured alcohol—other versions, such as coconut alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, are actually fine to use). And be on the lookout for potentially pore-clogging ingredients, such as coconut oil, octyl stearate, and isopropyl palmitate.

How to apply sunscreen

You should give your sunscreen time to absorb before heading outside—check your product’s label for the recommended amount of time! 

Besides waiting 20 minutes or so for your product to absorb, it’s crucial to apply enough sunscreen. I recommend using the two-finger rule: squirt some SPF down the length of two fingers and apply it to one section of your body (like your face and neck—you’ll need to repeat this step ten more times before your entire self is covered). And you’ll want to make sure to blend well and re-apply your sunscreen as needed (once for about every 2 hours of sun exposure). 

What does SPF stand for?

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a number that measures a sunscreen’s ability to prevent UVB rays from damaging the skin. The number is based on testing that measures protection against sunburn or redness on sunscreen-protected skin compared to unprotected skin. Sunscreens labeled “Broad-Spectrum SPF” are best because they protect against both UVA and UVB rays.

So that’s what I know as your friendly local expert. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out to your Curology provider.

If you’re not already a Curology member, you can get your first month of custom prescription skincare for free (just pay $4.95 to cover shipping and handling)—including access to the sunscreen. If you’re an existing Curology patient you can easily add the face sunscreen to your routine—just add it to your next shipment for an additional $14 (plus tax where applicable), and it’ll arrive straight at your door, along with the rest of your custom routine. Until next time…!

All my best,

Nicole Hangsterfer, PA-C

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*Sunscreen cannot prevent all harm from UV rays.

This article was originally publish on August 13, 2021, and updated on June 21, 2022.

Written by

Nicole Hangsterfer, PA-C