You may know vitamin C can help when you get a cold, but did you know that topical vitamin C can also help your skin? The potential benefits of this water-soluble vitamin are a hot topic in the world of skincare.

Curious about how it can help your skin? When applied topically, it’s a powerhouse antioxidant. It helps slow signs of aging, reduce dark spots, boost protection against the sun, protect your skin from free radicals, and more. But does it play a role in relieving breakouts? Join us as Curology’s licensed dermatology providers unpack vitamin C and its role in combating acne.

What is vitamin C?

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a water-soluble vitamin that’s been widely studied for the potential benefits it may offer in a variety of health conditions. These health conditions include heart health, cancer prevention, and the common cold.¹ Additionally, your body uses it to maintain normal skin functioning, collagen synthesis, and keratinocyte differentiation,² which is the process your body uses to develop mature skin cells.

Your skin’s main function is to protect your body from the environment, and normally it contains high levels of vitamin C to perform necessary functions.³ Studies have shown that your skin’s concentration lowers as you age or in photodamaged skin.⁴ Vitamin C in the outer layers of your skin also reduces quicker with exposure to environmental stressors.⁵

How does vitamin C affect the signs of acne?

Acne vulgaris is a common inflammatory skin condition that occurs when pores become clogged with excess oil and dead skin cells. Bacteria that normally live on the skin (C. acnes) thrive in excess sebum and trigger an inflammatory response—and that leads to acne! There are different types of acne, including blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pustules, and cysts or nodules. While vitamin C is not currently recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology to treat or prevent acne,⁶ emerging research shows it may help acne-prone skin in a variety of ways when applied topically.⁷ ⁸

Vitamin C may reduce acne-related inflammation

The benefits of vitamin C include anti-inflammatory properties, and studies have shown that when applied topically,⁹ the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties effectively reduce the number of acne lesions.¹⁰ ¹¹

Vitamin C may reduce hyperpigmentation

Those dark spots that are left after a pimple heals (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) or too much time in the sun (such as sunspots) can happen when factors trigger an increase in melanin production. This is the pigment responsible for dark marks (hyperpigmentation). But vitamin C can help by interfering with tyrosinase, an enzyme the body uses to produce melanin.¹²

Vitamin C may improve the appearance of acne scars

Acne scars develop when the skin doesn’t heal properly following a breakout. The main factors that affect scar formation include acne severity, genetics, and delay in acne treatment.¹³ So is vitamin C good for acne scars? It may help reduce the appearance of scars by boosting collagen synthesis but those with sensitive skin may need to take precautions when using topical serum.

More benefits for your skin

There are several other benefits of topical vitamin C for skin health. For example, it helps promote tissue and wound healing.¹⁴ Topical vitamin C also helps protect your skin against photodamage. When it is combined with daily SPF sunscreen* protection, it helps prevent damage caused by oxidative stress.¹⁵ This happens when the skin is exposed to pollutants and environmental stressors, including ultraviolet (UV) rays. Application 2 hours before exposure to UV rays may also help reduce your potential risk of wrinkles.¹⁶

Topical administration smooths fine lines by increasing collagen production. Recent clinical studies have shown that regularly applying it topically can improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.¹⁷ The result is skin that looks smoother.

Types of vitamin C

The 3 common forms of vitamin C used in skincare products are L-ascorbic acid (LAA), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), and ascorbyl-6-palmitate. The difference between the chemical formulations is their stability and bioavailability.¹⁸ ¹⁹

L-ascorbic acid (LAA)

This is the naturally occurring form of the topical vitamin and the most popular form used in skincare products. L-ascorbic acid is the most biologically available and well-studied form.²⁰

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP)

This form of vitamin C is stable at a neutral pH of 7. Unlike LAA, which is hydrophilic (soluble in water), MAP is lipophilic (soluble in fats).

Ascorbyl-6-palmitate

Ascorbyl-6-palmitate is another lipid-soluble form of vitamin C. Like MAP, it is more stable than LAA.

Should I apply vitamin C topically?

Unlike plants and some animals, humans can’t naturally produce vitamin C. And even with high oral supplemental doses, only a small fraction becomes biologically available and active to promote skin health. That’s why topical applications provide such important skin benefits, such as protection against photodamage, reducing hyperpigmentation, and improving skin texture.²¹

While topical vitamin C cannot cure acne, it does offer many benefits for the skin. These benefits may help improve breakouts. The topical formulation can be applied in the form of serums, cleansers, oils, and creams.

Can you apply vitamin C serum every day?

Vitamin C serum is a skincare product that is packed with the vitamin. If you have sensitive skin, we recommend taking it slowly to minimize irritation or dryness. Here are some recommendations for use when starting out:

• Apply it to dry skin only.

• Try using it once every few days, or every other day, working up to daily use.

Potential benefits of oral vitamin C intake

Vitamin C is so much more than you might imagine as you’re downing a glass of OJ at the breakfast table—it plays a vital role in many of the body’s functions. It’s also a powerful antioxidant that can help protect the body from damage caused by free radicals. Integrating foods rich in this vitamin into your diet or via supplements can help:

Boost immune system functioning: Vitamin C is necessary for optimal bodily functioning, and while deficiency is rare, it is possible to have suboptimal levels. Only overt symptoms of deficiency occur when intake falls below 10 mg each day for many weeks.²² A healthy, well-balanced diet rich in vitamin C boosts immune system function, which helps encourage the production of white blood cells to fight infection.²³ Oranges, strawberries, broccoli, and red peppers are delicious—and nutritious—sources of vitamin C.²⁴

Protect against free radical damage: Another of the benefits of vitamin C is that it scavenges harmful free radicals, which are unstable molecules that contribute to signs of aging.²⁵ Free radicals cause oxidative stress, which this vitamin’s antioxidant properties help to combat.

May improve photodamage: Vitamin C’s antioxidant properties may aid the skin in a variety of ways. For example, it helps increase collagen production, which may help repair photodamaged skin.²⁶

Speaking of supplements, if you’re worried about breakouts, don’t be—no current research indicates that oral vitamin C causes acne. In fact, oral supplementation doesn’t adequately reach the skin, and topical use is favored for skin benefits.²⁷

Potential side effects of vitamin C

Widely considered safe, most people adjust to using oral and topical vitamin C with little to no adverse reaction. Vitamin C has low toxicity and is not known to have serious adverse side effects.²⁸

The most common complaints with high-dose supplementation are gastrointestinal disturbances such as diarrhea, nausea, and abdominal cramps.²⁹

How Curology can help

Curology was founded by dermatologists whose mission is to offer accessible dermatology services to all for skin concerns like acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging. We help take the guesswork out of your skincare routine—our licensed dermatology providers work with you to examine your skin, assess your skincare goals, and provide treatment options personalized to your skin’s needs.

Get your personalized skincare routine with Curology

Get your personalized skincare routine with Curology

Start your skin quiz

Signing up is easy.** You just answer a few questions and snap a few selfies to help us get to know your skin better. If Curology is right for you, one of our licensed dermatology providers will prescribe a personalized prescription formula*** that targets your specific skin goals. They’re also available to answer questions and modify your formula as your skin’s needs naturally shift over time.

P.S. We did the homework so you don’t have to:

1. National Institutes of Health. Vitamin C. (2021, March 26).

2. Pullar, J.M., et al. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. (2017, August 12).

3. Pullar, J.M., et al. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. Ibid.

4. Pullar, J.M., et al. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. Ibid.

5. Pullar, J.M., et al. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. Ibid.

6. Zaenglein, A.L., et al. Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. (May 2016).

7. Ruamrak, C., et al. Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. (2009, January 6).

8. Woolery-Lloyd, H., et al. Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. (2010, February 22).

9. Ruamrak, C., et al. Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. Ibid.

10. Woolery-Lloyd, H., et al. Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Ibid.

11. Telang, P.S. Vitamin C in Dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal. (April-June 2013).

12. Pullar, J.M., et al. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. Ibid.

13. Kravvas, G. and Al-Niaimi, F. A systematic review of treatments for acne scarring. Part 1: Non-energy-based techniques. Scars, Burns & Healing. (January-December 2017).

14. Telang, P.S. Vitamin C in Dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal. Ibid.

15. Al-Niaimi, F. and Chiang, N.Y.Z. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. (2017, July 1).

16. Al-Niaimi, F. and Chiang, N.Y.Z. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. Ibid.

17. Fitzpatrick, R.E. and Rostan, E.F. Double-Blind, Half-Face Study Comparing Topical Vitamin C and Vehicle for Rejuvenation of Photodamage. Dermatologic Surgery. (2008, September 24).

18. Austria, R. et. al. Stability of vitamin C derivatives in solution and topical formulations. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis. (March 1997).

19. Al-Niaimi, F. and Chiang, N.Y.Z. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Application. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. Ibid.

20. Al-Niaimi, F. and Chiang, N.Y.Z. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. Ibid.

21. Al-Niaimi, F. and Chiang, N.Y.Z. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. Ibid.

22. National Institutes of Health. Vitamin C. Ibid.

23. National Institutes of Health. Vitamin C. Ibid.

24. National Institutes of Health. Vitamin C. Ibid.

25. National Institutes of Health. Vitamin C. Ibid.

26. Michels, A.J. Vitamin C and Skin Health. Linus Pauling Institute. (September 2011).

27. Telang, P.S. Vitamin C in Dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal. Ibid.

28. National Institutes of Health. Vitamin C. Ibid.

29. National Institutes of Health. Vitamin C. Ibid.

30. Woolery-Lloyd, H., et al. Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Ibid.

31. Woolery-Lloyd, H., et al. Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Ibid.

32. Telang, P.S. Vitamin C in Dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal. Ibid.

33. National Institutes of Health. Vitamin C. Ibid.

Melissa Hunter is a board certified family nurse practitioner at Curology. She received her MSN from George Washington University in Washington, DC.

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Written by

Curology Team

Medically reviewed by

Melissa Hunter, NP-C